COSMETICS???

COSMETICS???

The facial cream product was originally functioned as a moisturizer to prevent dry skin because of exposure to sunlight. However, over the development period of this product was developed into a multifunctional product, ie, in one product packaging but has benefits that diverse. Because the additional functions of the product, then the price is also becoming more expensive than other facial cream products that have only one function. If ordinary valuable product IDR 20,000, - then this product is worth IDR. 249 000, -.

This product is a special formula designed for the skin using Spring Bio technology which utilizes natural active ingredients and uses the latest scientific processing. This product contains wheat extracts which help restore skin's natural firmness, sodium hyaluronate which helps maintain moisture balance, pro-retinol A to help promote skin cell renewal. The formula is water resistant with a high SPF protection.

Sodium hyaluronate is a material that is added to a dry, scaly skin treatments. This material acts as a lubricant in the leather-like function when injected into the bone joints. Sodium hyaluronate or hyaluronic acid (HA) is a kind of polysaccharides composed of repeating disaccharide units of N-acetylglucosamine and glucuronic acid. Sodium hyaluronate plays an important role in maintaining the water content in the skin. Poor environmental conditions (hot and dry) and aging can cause a decrease in HA content in the skin so the skin's ability to store water is reduced and skin becomes dry and rough. Lack of polysaccharide such as HA in the skin can also cause skin aging.

Hyaluronan Structure is energetically stable because the stereochemistry of the disaccharide component. Bulky groups of each sugar molecule by steric be in the desired position, given the smaller hydrogen bear the axial position.

The HA characteristic structure causes HA have a high humidity, the regulatory function of water content and the solution was to have high viscosity and lubricity. When HA is used on the skin surface then it will form a layer of air permeable and keep skin moist and soft. HA has a small molecular weight that can be penetrated into the dermis layer of skin. HA serves as an extracellular matrix in skin. Once inside the dermis layer of skin, HA combines with water perfectly, spur blood microcirculation in the skin and absorption of nutrients so it can keep the skin metabolism running smoothly. That's way, any wrinkles to gradually disappear and skin health is protected. Sodium hyaluronate is one of the best natural moisturizing component used in cosmetics (Tradekey.com, 2009).

HA is also a major component of the skin associated with tissue repair. In addition, the abundance of Hyaluronan in the extracellular matrix contribute to tissue hydrodynamics, movement and proliferation of cells and play a role in the interaction of receptors on the surface of some cells (Wikipedia, 2009).

In this cosmetic product also contains UV protector. This product can protect our skin from dangerous UV rays. The sun radiates its spectrum to the surface of the earth.

Because certain senyawa2 absorption in the atmosphere such as ozone, O3, O2 oxygen, carbon dioxide CO2, water vapor H2O, and so on, the spectrum can reach the Earth's surface by removing the spectral lines in different sections. UV radiation is part of the solar spectrum that has a wavelength range 100-400 nm. UV light itself is divided into several sub-ranges: UVA (315-400 nm), UVB (280-315 nm) and UVC (100-200 nm). UVC is absorbed completely by the ozone at an altitude of 18-40 km above the earth's surface. However, UVB and UVA only be weakened so that the earth's surface there are still about 5% of sunlight intensity. These rays can be bad for humans if the rays on the skin excessively. UVB can burn the skin, while UVA damage to skin tissue in the deeper layers of skin while the outside was cold, lowered immunity, cancer and so forth. Therefore we need protection for the skin especially the facial skin that is usually exposed to direct sunlight. Protection is packed in cosmetic products face cream. Harmful effects of UVA and UVB on the skin as indicated by the following:

There are some UV filter substances are usually added to the formula facial cream to absorb or reflect UV light so that it can protect the skin. Such materials are usually classified into 3 major types namely: 1) organic compounds that can absorb UV light, such as oxybenzone and avobenzone, (2) inorganic particulates that can absorb, reflect and scatter UV light, for example TiO2, ZnO or a combination of both, ( 3) Particulate organic absorb sunlight as most organic compounds, but contain more chromophore groups that can reflect and scatter light fractions such as particulate inorganic and has a different behavior with organic compounds, eg Tinosorb Tinosorb M and S (Wikipedia, 2009).

The working principle of organic compounds such as oxybenzone and avobenzone in protecting the skin from UV rays can be learned from the structure of compounds. The structure of aromatic compounds in the form of molecules conjugated with carbonyl group makes it to absorb high-energy UV light and release energy as light with lower energy so that it can protect the skin from high-energy UV light. When exposed to UV rays, most of these organic compounds will not be amended so as to maintain the chemical potential of UV absorption without significant photodegradation. There are certain organic compounds that are less stable, such as avobenzone, so we need plus chemical stabilizer to slow the destruction of these compounds, eg, with the addition bemotrizinol, octocrylene and other types of fotostabiliser (Smart skin care.com, 2009).

Particulate organic like bisotrizole, commonly called tinisorb M can absorb UV light with a wavelength range of 280-400 nm, ie UVA and UVB rays. Bisotrizole stable when exposed to UV rays and other sunscreen ingredients to protect from degradation. Bisoctrizole is a hybrid type of sun block agents that act as chemical and physical sunscreens. Tinosorb M is usually combined with Tinosorb S (Bimotrizinol) in order to get more kamsimal. The ability of both is shown in the figure as follows:

The working principle of this bisotrizole resemble organic compounds such as oxybenzone above, but it also works like bisotrizole inorganic particulates such as TiO2 and ZnO can absorb that in addition to also reflect and scatter UV rays.

Bisotrizole and bimotrizole have the ability to absorb UV light because the aromatic conjugated structures.Its ability as a UV absorber is also strengthened by the chromophore clusters on them. Bisotrizole and bimotrizole has a size of nanoparticles such as TiO2 and ZnO ie <200 nm. This is a make it more effective to reflect and scatter UV rays. Differences bisotrizole with bisotrizole bimotrizole is usually added to the water phase of the sunscreen as a suspension of 50% because it is more soluble in water phase sedangan bimotrizole more soluble in oil phase. Another advantage possessed bisotrizole and bimotrizole is the lack of effect on estrogenic hormones on cells is usually performed by a sunscreen with organic compounds (Wikipedia, 2009). Bisotrizole have a photo stable structure ie it can help prevent the degradation of molecules that exist due to the protons on UV light so effective as a sunscreen ingredient. Bisotrizole also provide stabilization. It tends to be stable and not easily subject to significant photodegradation (Pharmacymix.com, 2008). TiO2 and ZnO are usual inorganic particulate added. TiO2 and ZnO were made by size nanoparticles. Both have the ability to absorb, reflect and scatter UV rays. In fact, nanoparticles of silicon (Si) can also be used in sunscreens (AP Popov, 2008).

TiO2 has been widely used in cosmetics, paint, air and water purification. TiO2 has three types of crystal modification is commonly used as sunscreen namely rutile, anatase and brookite. Brookite crystal type is rarely used. The three types of crystals have different fotoaktivitas. There are some researchers claim that the anatase mempnyai fotoaktivitas higher, stating that rutile has higher photoactivity and some are stating that a mixture of both will be more effective. However, photoactivity of a crystal TiO2 depends on relative humidity, temperature of preparation, production process and particle size (AP Popov, 2008). TiO2 can absorb UV light due to its nature as a semiconductor with the character of the electronic structure which has a filled valence band electrons and the empty conduction band. When TiO2 absorbs UV light, the photon energy will result in excitation of electron in the valence band to the conduction band, leaving holes (HVB +) in the valence band. The reaction can be written as follows: TiO2 + h  HVB + + e cb-Once generated HVB + and ECB-and TiO2 can do fotokatalitiknya activity. HVB + acts as an oxidant and the ECB, may act as a reductant (Ramlawati, 2005). TiO2 photocatalytic activity turned out to produce free radicals that can oxidize DNA and RNA in vitro. These free radicals can be generated at the time of HVB + is trapped in the surface titanol group. Radical is a radical. OH. The reaction can be written as follows: HVB + +> TiIV OH {> TiIV OH. +}

This is one weakness as a sunscreen, so the need is coated with silica (SiO2), dimethicone or alumina (Al2O3) (Popov AP, 2008).

In addition, besides can absorb, it also can reflect or scatter UV rays. This is because TiO2 has a structure with high crystallinity and is supported by the its nano particle size. The smaller the particle size, the ability to reflect the higher the UV rays because the more surface area. According to Innes et al. 2002, TiO2 nanoparticles tend to form aggregates and agglomerates so as to reduce its effectiveness to protect the skin from UVA and UVB rays, so it needs a new method to overcome that is by mechanochemical processing (MCPTM) that can produce nano-TiO2 powder with no weakness over the distribution of limited size at 25 ± 4 nm, which is best used as a sunscreen.

Latest Technology has now developed a combination of UV filters from particulate organic and inorganic compounds. This combination can boost the ability of product as a UV protector. For example, a combination of avobenzone with TiO2 or ZnO. However, avobenzone is becoming unstable when combined with inorganic particulates as avobenzone will be more easily degraded by the effects of particulate inorganic fotokalatik activity. To overcome this developed the use of TiO2 or ZnO which has been treated, that is coating the surface with various compounds.

From the above data and graphic images can be seen that the combination of avobenzone view of TiO2 and ZnO can decrease the stability of avobenzone because of degradation due to photocatalytic activity. Different results when avobenzone is combined with TiO2 and ZnO surface coating which has been treated with various compounds.The combination of avobenzone with ZnO treatment also showed increased stability of avobenzone than combination with ZnO without treatment. From both these data indicate that the best treatment is to use silica (www.koboproducts.com).

SPF (Sun Protection Factor) is a measure of the ability of a sunscreen product to protect skin from UV rays. Many types of SPF, there's SPF 15, SPF 30, even now there is an SPF 70. SPF known since 1962 that is used to measure the effect of sunscreen against UV rays. Most products have always labeled themselves function as a sunscreen SPF on the packaging. If the product is labeled themselves SPF 15 means that if the skin has been exposed to sunlight for 10 minutes, SPF 15 will protect the skin from sun damage during the 150 minutes. A higher SPF means having more time could be exposed to sunlight. It also illustrates the percentage of UVB rays are absorbed, but the number of SPF does not increase exponentially. For example SPF 15 absorbs 93.3% of UVB rays but the SPF 30 absorbs 96.7%. This means that if the number of SPF multiplied the number of absorbed increased by 3.4% (howstuffworks.com, 2009).

SPF% UV SPF% UV absorbed absorbed

2 50 15 93.3

4 70 30 96,7

8 87.5 50 98

However, SPF is a measurement of less than perfect because no visible skin damage and skin aging are also caused by UVA rays that do not cause milking and sores on the skin. Based on the 2003 study, the conventional sunscreens do not block such as its ability to block UVA and UVB SPF 30 + is usually only have the ability to block UVA is very low. Although some products labeled "broad-spectrum UVA / UVB protection" was not necessarily provide good protection against UVA rays. Based on the study in 2004, the best UVA protection is a combination of ZnO, avobenzone and ecamsule. TiO2 may provide good protection, but can not completely overcome UVA (Wikipedia, 2009).

Pro-retinol derived from a class of drugs called retinoids. Active retinoids is called retinol or vitamin A. This material provides a touch of the skin cell and ordered him to produce skin cells more quickly new. Working primarily repair damaged skin and stimulate the cells in the outer layer of skin to produce new collagen and elastin. Retinol is more effective to prevent aging and sun-damaged skin and acne (www.smartskincare.com).

Now already developed viterol A. Viterol A solution is a dispersion of pure retinol, tocopherol acetate and D-palmitic askorbil pantenol phospholipidic packaged in a micro-spheres obtained in special conditions making organic nanoparticles with a diameter of 10μ. This organic microspheres enhances the transport and absorption into the skin up to the ultimate in skin tissue where wrinkles are usually derived. Organic microspheres is called nanosomes. Viterol A function is similar to the retinol A, but their effectiveness is higher because it can penetrate the skin deeply and more diverse functions.

After releasing nanosom viterol A in the skin, then began working viterol A spur the skin cells to produce new cells so that the wrinkles can be reduced and even prevented. A Viterol This stimulates collagen production and renewing epithelial tissue, improving skin elasticity, eliminate free radicals in the skin, improving skin smoothness and others (www.1stvitality.com).

Reference:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunscreen # Sun_protection_factor

http://www.ciba.com/index/ind-index/ind-per_car/ind-pc-uv/ind-pc-uv-tinosorbm.htm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bisoctrizole

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vitamin_A

http://www.biochemicals.cn/Sodium_Hyaluronate.html

http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/retinol.html

http://jilbab.or.id/archives/14-mengenal-spf/

http://www.1stvitality.co.uk/viterol/how-does-viterol-a-work.html

http://www.1stvitality.co.uk/viterol/what-is-viterola.html

http://encyclopedia.farlex.com/sodium+hyaluronate

http://www.sciphar.com/Nutritional% 20supplement/Hyaluronic% 20Acid.asp? gclid = COOYpfDk3pkCFRMupAodUm6UWA

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/oxybenzone

http://www.koboproducts.com/download/NYSCCAvobenzone.pdf

http://www.koboproducts.com/download/colorsummit06-kobo.pdf

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bimotizinole

http://www.mydr.com.au

Popov AP, 2008, TiO2 nanoparticles as UV protectors in skin, Faculty of Technology, Department of Electrical and Information Engineering, University of Oulu, Finland.

Ramli, Ramlawati, 2005, the study photodegradation of Orange II Dye Terkatalisis by TiO2 (Thesis), Faculty Matemetika And Natural Sciences, Gadjah Mada University, Yogyakarta.